Jigs & Accessories (Version 1.0) February 27, 2004   Out of all my power tools I was intimated by the table saw the most. I remember very little from grade school woodshop class and do not recall if I even used one back then. In anticipation for the BT I read as much on proper usage and table saw safety as possible. The horror stories from guys nicknamed Stubby were enough encouragement to prepare myself properly. After reading through various online resources, including the BT3Central, and The Table Saw Book by Kelly Mehler, I felt cautiously ready to power up my BT. To gain confidence and get acquainted with my new saw I built a number of accessories and jigs that will be useful for future projects.   Outfeed Table Extension Table Router/Jointer Fence Tenon Jig Clamp Storage Zero Clearance Throat Plates   Outfeed Table After my first practice rip I knew immediately I needed an outfeed table. I originally designed the table with the intention of folding it away for storage when not in use. The table is made from MDF with scrap pine edging. Oddly, I did not miter the corners of the edging. With this being my first project on the table saw I overlooked the fact that I could easily cut miters. A notch was added to provide room for the sliding miter table. The table rest on MDF brackets which is attached to the underside of the rear rails using t-nut and bolts. The hinged legs can fold up and the entire table can be removed from the bracket for storage. It wasn't until after I completed this project that I reorganized my shop and now the outfeed table remains attached at all times. Since I now have room for a dedicated outfeed table, my next version will include enclosed storage space below where the shop vac currently resides. [top]   Extension Table I saw this table on the BT3Central forum and knew I wanted one. The original design was from Rod Kirby whom is quite an inspiration to many BT3 owners. My changes stemmed purely from boredom as I decided to create the table despite not having the proper hardware called for in Kirby's design. Rather than using t-nuts to attach the table I decided to mill "t-slides" made from MDF that would support the table. The t-slides slide into the t-slots on the inside of the front and rear rails. The types of cuts I had to achieve for these slides reminded me how nice it was to own a table saw. Never would I have imagined doing this on my circular saw. With the t-slides in place I located the extension table on top. The idea worked so well there was no need to fasten the t-slides to the tabletop. With the tabletop floating, I can now freely swap the top out for any other options. I soon plan to make another top that contains a miter slot for the right side of the blade. [top]   Router/Jointer Fence The router fence is a culmination of many ideas taken from BT3Central and an article from American Woodworker that adds jointer capabilities to a router fence. The entire unit is fitted to sit on the stock BT rip fence. The base is made from birch plywood with MDF fences. Both fences can be easily removed by simply loosening the wing nuts. Shims can be added to outfeed fence for use as a jointer. Admittedly, I have not tested it as a jointer but the fence is capable if the need should arise. Several months ago I had purchased a Bosch 1617EVS fixed base router, which allowed me to keep my old Craftsmen as a dedicated table router. I added a small storage bin on the base unit to house the various throat plates and router wrenches. Also included is a 2-1/2" dust port above which works surprisingly well. In retrospect, I wish I had heighten the portion of the base that rides the rip fence higher to add more support to ensure a more accurate 90 degrees to the accessory table. Overall, it is an adequate fence that works well for my needs. [top]   Tenon Jig I researched various tenon jigs and decided to go with a simple design. I didn't feel the need for micro adjustments or angular cuts. The design is mainly from ShopNotes with the exception of the clamp. The toggle clamp makes it very easy to lock and unlock the work piece. A $12 clamp from Woodcraft and some scrap MDF and I have myself a usable tenon jig. [top]   Clamp Storage This is my first attempt at some clamp storage. Originally, my clamps were hung horizontally from pegboards. Obviously, that made extremely inefficient use of my wall space. I notched spacers into MDF and attached it to a cleat hung from a piece of 1/2" plywood on the wall. The plywood backing was painted black simply because I did not like the look of the plywood. I had anticipated this wall space would handle a lot more clamps than shown in the picture. If and when I accumulate more clamps I will have to come up with a different solution. An option is to create additional clamp storage to my next version of the outfeed table. As you can see, I need more clamps! [top]   Zero Clearance Throat Plates The accessory kit provided ZCTP worked very well. In fact, I was puzzled as to why others made their own plates when they had perfectly good ones from the kit. I soon found out when I made a cut that was supported only by the throat plate. The plastic throat plate began flexing downward as I pushed the work piece through. Also, the kit provided plate was not flush with the tabletop surface. Clearly, this was not going to be acceptable. I read a number of methods for creating shop-made throat plates and in the end I chose to use hardwood plywood simply for its stability and ease of milling. The entire process turned out to be much easier than expected. The greatest difficulty was drilling the holes without splitting the plywood. The dimensions that follow are based on my own saw so I highly suggest taking your own measurements due to slight variances from saw to saw. Turns out the thickness I needed for the throat area was just shy of 3/8" or approximately 11/32". Amazingly, I found that Home Depot provided 2x2 stock of BC Plywood at 11/32". What luck! When completed the stock is just proud of the tabletop when placed on the throat area set screws allowing enough reserve for sanding smooth and level to the table surface. Again, this process turned out to be extremely easy and provides a much more sturdy ZCTP that is flush with the tabletop surface. And I have to admit; I really like the look of the stained wood! Two coats of your choice of stain and two coats of paste wax for a smooth finish and you're ready for action. I think for my next attempt I will use thicker stock, which will require additional rabbets to clear the corner set screws. [top]   Return to Main Page